Even though I am only supposed to talk about Baltic fashion here, let’s just say that it has gone in a deep summer sleep. Editors and stylists cannot help but post Instagram pictures from the beach, models enjoy as much ice-cream as they want and designers… well, they deserve a break, too.
However, London, Milan and Paris have no time to sleep as the menswear fashion month for spring/summer 2014 has begun. London wrapped up a few days ago; the fashion elite traveled to Florence afterwards and today the circus came to Milan. Usually people say that one has to go out with a bang but Milanese designers believe it is the other way around – you have to start as loud as you can. That is why the Versace show, which ended about twenty minutes ago, had a flawless opening with about seven half naked models and many great leather suits. Donatella knows her clientele – ‘less is more’ makes no sense. More is more. More golden chains and python suits, please. Period.
Nevertheless, today I feel like talking about one of my favorite designers Stefano Pilati. You may not know his name but I am sure that you have seen at least one of his iconic collections and supermodel-studded campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent. You know, when it still had the ‘Yves’. Kate Moss in a grey jersey dress hanging around store windows. Claudia Schiffer in bright Hollywood sunlight. Gisele Bundchen in a rough wool coat, exploring Paris in the night. When Tom Ford left and caused quite a controversy, Stefano stepped in and made me fall in love with YSL once again. That is why I could not hold my tears when he took his last bow on the runway in March 2012.
Of course, Hedi Slimane is doing a great job creating a wardrobe for Courtney Love but Stefano is still greatly missed. Well, WAS, because a few months ago he was named the new creative director of Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna and presented his first EZ show today. And what a show that was! If I may, Stefano at his best. Fashion critics have always admired his soft touch and ability to feminize menswear in the best way possible. Sounds odd? It should not. He knows his fabrics and draping techniques and this is why his suits look more sensual than, for example, Armani or Prada. This spring collection might not be your cup of tea but Stefano’s talent cannot be denied.
So what is the moral of this post? Just a fact that a truly talented artist survives no matter what. When Stefano took his last bow in Paris, everyone got emotional. But they knew that this is not the end – a designer with such a unique perspective cannot be forgotten. Good to have you back, Stefano.